Aging || It’s Not Just Skin Deep Anymore


For years we have focused on the quality of our skin in our quest for eternal and ageless beauty, from retinols to alpha-hydroxy and hyaluronic acids.  The beauty world mainly focused on the skin from a superficial perspective.. from the top.  There have always been methods that incorporate facial massage and micro-currents, but the most popular and general methods have been skin care creams.  Around two decades ago, electric products and tools started to be added into the mix.  This shift signified an acknowledgement of the importance of facial muscle tone in the quest for good skin.  By default jade rollers, micro-needling wands and of course micro-current gadgets all became part of our beauty regime because of it.  Additionally, establishments such as FaceGYM etc started cropping up, reinforcing the importance of muscle tone.

Enter: newly established company Adipeau, which has taken the beauty world by storm with their advocacy of facial fat as an important factor in the ageing process, or should we say, ageless process.  Their belief, supported by science, is that the three fat layers play a role, as important, if not more, to facial muscle tone.  After all they argue, good fat activates the body’s ability to signal to the fibroblasts to produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. Operative word being, ‘good fat’, which is in fact at the forefront of the brand.  Fat is identified as either good or bad, and its impact on the face is drastically different.  Unhealthy fat cells, for example have the opposite effect, undermining the productivity of fibroblasts significantly.




Adipeau is a beauty company with the improvement of the health of facial fat at the heart of its work.  The company, cofounded by biotech entrepreneur Ivan Galanin, celebrity aesthetician Kristyn Smith and plastic surgeon Dr. Jacob Tower has released its first product: Fat Balance Activator, which will be available for sale at Net-a-Porter in January 2021.

One way of thinking about the aging process is a decrease of circulation. As we age, it takes longer for our bodies to get stuff from point A to point B. Our blood supply is what brings in the new nutrients and pulls out the old toxins. If that process takes longer, that means it’s taking a longer time for the cells to get new nutrients. That means they’re breaking down. When things start to break down or the circulation starts to decrease, the skin — besides the fat layer, which you can’t see — will also become thinner. Once the health of the face starts to pick back up, the skin itself will thicken up. It will turnover more.




There are three layers of facial fat in the face — dermal white adipose tissue, subcutaneous white adipose tissue and deep white adipose tissue — and their health depends on a state of equilibrium supported by factors such as healthy diet, moderate exercise and limited sun exposure.

“Moderate exercise is really good for fat. It keeps the fat cells toned,” Adipeau co-founder Galanin said. “Extreme exercise is bad for fat because the body devotes all of its energy to sustaining you on that extreme exercise path and it shuts down everything that’s nonessential, [including] new fat cell formation.” Inflammation, Galanin adds, is often the primary interferer with fat fitness.

Contrary to the belief that people lose facial fat with age, Galanin said that most actually gain it. Sagging skin, he said, is a result of facial fat losing its health, consequently causing weakening of the skin.


Sagging skin, he said, is a result of facial fat losing its health, consequently causing weakening of the skin.


According to Galanin, there are two main age paradigms.  One from the dermatological perspective and the other from that of plastic surgeons.  The dermatologists focus on fibroblasts and how you get fibroblasts to be productive. At the other end, for years, plastic surgeons were saying that people lost fat and volume in the face and they needed to be injected. Not true says scientific adviser to the brand, Yale-associated plastic surgeon [Dr.] Jake Tower, who published a paper on facial aging. A series of CAT Scans and actually prove that  most people don’t lose fat in their faces, they gain it. Which actually makes intuitive sense.

The bottom line for this Adipeau is to highlight the importance of good facial fat and its impact on the aging process. Their one and only product aims to preserve the good facial fat that we already have, unfortunately it is not possible to reverse the damage already done to the fat cells.  So what should we do till the product is available to us?  Moderate exercise, good food choices and most importantly, good mental health!